I've got to apply these finishes to a giclee print i've been commisioned to do. never done this before and not entirely sure how to go about getting the required result. I've ordered the 2 stage craqelure varnishes and black patina as per the customers request but as to the application itself - any useful tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. cheers.

What did he just say?

I think perhaps a woodworking-finishing forum would be the place to look for advice. If I'm not mistaken it is an aged distressed look. Are there not directions for application from the manufacturer?

you can apply craqelure on a number of surfaces - like wood, pottery or canvasses/paintings. directions? are you mad? this kind of stuff isnt run of the mill from what I can gather so they dont build in idiot proof directions on the box....

:-) Back to the drawing board, or in this case - canvas.

Some days yes...only advice, don't practice on the original;-)

quite. Im pretty sure I can figure out the craqelure - its clear varnish ergo not exactly rocket science. Its the black patina im more troubled with. the thought of smearing lots of black gloop all over my lovingley prepared artwork in the vague hope it will wipe off nicely leaving a lovely pattern behind doesn't, frankly, inspire me with heaps of confidence.

I agree Phile grab some images and start teating.

directions are on the can
6-10 inches from surface
shake first
apply evenly in overlapping strokes

as for the black stuff- never heard of it, gl&hf

Noob - they arent aerosols - as far as I can gather you apply by brush the second stage crack varnish before the first stage dries. the later you leave it the smaller the cracks will be. If I figure it out ill document my progress and post it as a tutorial. or i'll crash and burn - one or the other.

Ok - the impasto modelling and craqelure varnishes are done. As predicted the weren’t complicated technically but logistically is a different matter...

1. If your going to use impasto or modelling gel on your artwork make sure it is of the variety that dries clear - not all do - if your not sure test it out on something similar to the surface your planning on using. Even if it dries clear it will be an opaque white colour to start with which actually helps you determine where the strokes are going. Use a medium consistency variant as this is still soft enough to be applied with artist brushes. Thick and heavy pastes and gels have to be applied with knives. To fully dry hard and clear takes around 24 hours depending on how thick you've applied it.

2. Craqelure Base Coat. This stuff is nasty. It has the consistency of PVA glue mixed with plaster of paris. It dries quickly so you can’t be too fussy about slapping it on as you have to get a smoothish and even coat - only attainable while it’s wet. It's ready to apply the top coat usually within the hour - don’t leave it any more than 2 hours or the cracking top coat wont react correctly with it. Bare in mind this stuff never actually dries completely and like the impasto starts milky white and sets clear - even when its clear it will be still tacky to the touch - this is ok.

3. Craqelure Top Coat. This stuff is a doddle to apply - it’s like milk in consistency but smells bad, a pleasant mix of ammonia and acid if you can imagine that. Just leave this to dry and crack of its own accord but make sure you are in a ventilated and reasonably cool room - if the temperature is too high the reaction wont work so keep the temperature ideally between 16 and 20 degrees (according the manufacturers spec)

If you’re going to display your artwork for a prolonged period in of time where it will be exposed to sunlight, remember to seal it with UV barrier fixatives or varnishes. I didn’t take any chances and did both before I started work on the faux finishes and will probably finish with a final UV fix to seal it all in.

So far this is proving to be an interesting and therapeutic exercise and it really does add a completely different dimension to your artwork so give it a go!

The gloopy black ageing patina is yet to come so ill report back on that later....

Thank you for the information.. I think I'll pass.. Sounds like too much work.. I have seen what this looks like finished and it is neat..

Patina's - Don't go there unless your really have to. This stuff is the vilest most tactile substance known to man. Nuclear waste has nothing on this goop. Extensive research revealed that the best way to apply this is to soak a lint free cloth in the patina and rub this over your craqelure surface. What they didn’t say was how hard you have to rub. It’s very similar in consistency to boot polish and is as hard to rub in or remove from surfaces it’s not supposed to be on. Wear gloves. I didn’t and half a bottle of turpentine and swarfega later I’m still regretting it. Whilst it undeniably imparts a nice aged look to your varnish it’s a huge amount of effort that doesn’t really add that much aesthetically to the already cracked surface.

It is more suited to artwork with large areas of colour as it can over complicate any detailed areas. On reflection black wasn’t the best choice for my image as it’s already very dark - a bronze patina would have worked better me thinks.

If you do use this, add a VERY TINY amount onto a cloth and rub it into the material to soak the cloth. Then dab it onto your artwork to transfer some of it onto the surface - quickly rub this into the surface - the patina settles into the cracks on the varnish but is rubbed off the rest of the surface. Like boot polish - buff any excess off the surface with the same cloth to make sure you leave no cloudy areas.

Good luck with this if you do use it but my advice would be to stop at the craqelure stage which leaves a great effect on its own.

Unbelievable! Got the painting done and shipped to its new owner in Australia. UPS very efficiently got it to Sydney in less than 24 hours from England but it's now been impounded by a quarantine official despite carrying all the relevant import and customs forms. On past experience when the Australian customs service do this it usually means they are planning on stealing it so if it gets to it's destination at all now depends entirely on whether or not whoever impounded it thinks it will go in their apartment or not....

Ahh, yes.. Dealt with those before.. Hope it makes it through..

UPS managed to strong arm it back off them so it's back enroute again :-)

Good glad to hear it.. Can't wait to hear the end of this story..

It got delivered this morning. Customer thought it was 'Awesome'. The end.

:-)

*crowd goes wild*

YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!