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Denpasar in Bali is a city of contrasts. It is a tourist town that has grown too quickly. Traffic is horrible -- few follow rules, especially the motorcycles. Not enough sidewalks and those that are being built have gaping holes to poluted waters below or are being used to hold materials, meaning you have to walk at times on the streets where no one gives the right of way. Trash is everywhere. But for all of this, there are spots of beauty. You can see what it once was and what it might become again.