Wonderful action shot. Thats what you call perfect timing. Well done! Always hard to think about composition when taking these sorts of shots as the timing is everything but it possibly would have been slightly better if the surfer was not bang on central. Still a great shot though :)
He who dwells in the shelter of the Most High will rest in the shadow of the almighty. I will say of the Lord, "He is my refuge and my fortress, my God in whom i trust". Psalm 91: 1 and 2